A little information about olives
and olive oil. The most common mistake is the advice that “all olives begin as
a green fruit and turn black when they are ripe”. Absolute nonsense. It is as
wrong as saying that all apples turn red when ripe. There are several hundred
distinct cultivars of olives in existence. They are called cultivars, not
varieties. This is a botanical technicality that many people ignore. It is
important to botanists, professional horticulturists and others to distinguish
between the two, but most of the world happily ignores it, and I am sure the
vast majority are not even aware there is a distinction. Look up the
differences if you wish – you may end up confused. So far as olive growers are
concerned the importance is that a cultivar will not come true to type if grown
from seed. In other words you cannot take the pits from your favourite olive
tree and grow lots more of the same cultivar. You need to take cuttings. This
applies to all cultivars.
Whilst many of the cultivars do
indeed turn black when ripe there are a considerable number that do not. Some
ripen to a dark red, including the Cordovil de Castelo Branco which I grow, and
others a brownish colour. There are at least two white cultivars that I know of
– one each on the islands of Crete and Malta. There may well be more of which I
am ignorant. It does not help when supposed authorities on olive cultivars
refer to all olives that have a dark colour when ripe as “black” including the
Calletier of Niçoise Salad fame, and known as Taggiasca in nearby Liguria,
Italy.
As with wine, many factors
influence the taste of olive oil. The land, the olives, the season, the timing
of the harvest, the skill of the maker all contribute to the finished product
and so oils have a wide range of colour and taste. There is no “best” oil, and
there is no “best” wine. Like most things in life, it is a matter of personal
preference. I drink a lot of wine, and there are some I do not like. Similarly,
I have had olive oil in the past that I do not like either. It just happens
that all Portuguese olive oils I have had suit my palate – just one of several
reasons I live in Portugal rather than another olive oil producing country.
The expression “first cold press”
is totally meaningless. All virgin oils produced under the regulations of the
International Olive Oil Council, which includes all of Europe and many other
countries, are obtained from a single pressing of the olive paste (pulp and
pits combined) without the use of heat. Heat and solvents may be used later to
produce refined and industrial grade oils. Those countries which do not belong
to the IOOC, such as USA, make their own rules.
The next falsehood, and a
favourite of producers of vegetable seed oils, is that olive oil, and
particularly Extra Virgin Olive Oil (EVOO), cannot and should not be used for
frying. Again, absolute nonsense. Virgin olive oils have smoking temperatures
at least as high as other non-refined oils. Almost all vegetable oils in shops
are refined, having undergone an industrial process to produce the oil.
Personally, I would not use them. For the same reason I would not use margarine
or other refined vegetable spreads – only butter.
Seed oils only came into being
about 100 years ago, and whilst animal fats had been used in those areas where
the olive does not grow, olive oil was usually the only fat available for
everyone around the Mediterranean basin. It is still used for all methods of
cooking.
Consumers should be aware that
due to the greed and criminal activities of some people there has always been
fraud involved in the sale of olive oil. Several reputable tests by food
authorities and others in recent years have consistently revealed the
continuation of this fraud. The information is on the Internet for those who
want to check.
How do you know that you really
are buying EVOO or VOO, and it is made from olives (and only olives) grown the
country where the label says it originates? Unfortunately the buyer is relying
on the honesty of everyone involved in the production and bottling of that
particular oil, so there is no way to be certain without having it tested. This
is out of the question for the average consumer, but certain countries and
certain bottlers are known to be more reliable than others when it comes to
honesty of production.
I do not make my own oil, because
the cost of setting up a mill and oil producing equipment is prohibitive for my
quantity of olives, but I buy the oil I
use from the man to whom I sell my olives. I trust him and I know that the oil
is made from olives grown by local growers. I am also more than happy to use VOO
and not EVOO. If you can do so, buy direct from a mill. If not then I recommend
you buy Portuguese oil in preference to any other. Obviously people who grow olives
in other olive oil producing countries will recommend that you buy oil from
their country. The choice is yours.
